Echoes from the Himalayas: a journey with the nuns of Karsha

Two years ago, I had the incredible opportunity to live in Karsha Nunnery, also known as Chukshikjal, for a few weeks – a dream come true for me. Karsha Nunnery, founded in 1957, lies in the remote and harsh Zanskar Valley of the Himalayas, often referred to as ‘Little Tibet’ due to its untouched culture and deep-rooted practice of Tibetan Buddhism. The nuns there follow the Gelugpa, or Yellow Hat, sect, under the spiritual guidance of the Dalai Lama. Over the last 60 years, these remarkable women have built their nunnery stone by stone, carrying each one up the mountain by hand. In a part of the world where monks receive immense respect, women have had to fight for their spiritual freedom, and Karsha Nunnery stands as a testament to their resilience and determination.

The journey that led me to Karsha began more than two years ago when I participated in an Auroville exchange programme. This initiative, part of the Auroville Learning Exchange, involved a filmmaker from Zanskar coming to Auroville for three months, while I spent three months in Zanskar. During my time there, I met Norbu, a local resident, and shared with him my wish to experience life in a nunnery. Norbu’s aunt lived in Karsha, and through his help, I was able to stay there. For those few weeks, I contributed by teaching English and assisting in the kitchen, though the language barrier was significant – I did not speak Ladakhi, and the nuns spoke little English. Norbu became an essential part of this experience, translating and assisting with logistics.

When Norbu came to pick me up at the end of my stay, I asked him to explain Auroville to the nuns. They were deeply fascinated and expressed a strong desire to visit. They asked if I could try to make it possible for them to come to Auroville. It took two years of effort to organise this, but eventually, we made it happen. Bringing ten nuns from Karsha Nunnery to Auroville has been a dream realised not just for them, but for me as well.

The journey was not without its challenges. Initially, it felt daunting to secure the necessary funds, but Auroville’s travel unit Inside India provided immense support, booking tickets in advance even before we had the money. This reduced costs significantly, allowing us to avoid last-minute flight prices and secure train tickets at a lower rate. I also received invaluable support from Anne, who helped me navigate the overwhelming aspects of the project, particularly the difficulty of arranging accommodation for ten people. There were moments when I felt incredibly low, but her encouragement kept me going.

Kalsang from the Tibetan Pavilion played a crucial role as well. The Tibetan Pavilion, busy and often fully booked, was the only place that felt right for this project, and it took two years to secure a slot there.

Seeds of change

I am so happy it happened. We found that rare moment where everything aligned and synchronised perfectly, creating an experience none of us will forget. Venkatesh and I embarked on a remarkable journey to Karsha in Zanskar, Ladakh, where he played a crucial role in helping me document the entire process from start to finish. Transitioning from the balmy 30-degree weather in Auroville to the biting chill of minus 15 degrees in Zanskar was a shock to the system. The cold felt unrelenting, but after some time, we acclimatised. We spent days interviewing the nuns, immersing ourselves in their world, and eventually filmed their journey as they traveled to Auroville. The experience was not just beautiful – it was transformative for all of us involved.

The nuns stayed in Auroville for ten days, and those days were filled with rich activities and meaningful connections. One of the most impactful engagements for them was the time spent with Eco Femme. We organised a stitching workshop, and since then, the nuns have taken the initiative to purchase pads and stitch them within the nunnery. This project is blossoming, and we are proud to continue supporting their mission of educating women about health across the Ladakh region. Through women’s associations, various groups, and other nunneries, the nuns plan to distribute Eco Nun cloth pads, fostering change and spreading awareness about menstrual health.

Another memorable visit was to EcoService, which left a profound impression on the nuns. They were amazed by the dedication to recycling and upcycling, and it sparked a desire to incorporate similar practices in their own communities. Inspired by what they saw, the nuns expressed a deep commitment to promoting sustainability within their own circles, aiming to teach and share this new knowledge across their region.

The nuns found immense joy in the simple pleasures of Auroville. They had never seen the ocean. They delighted in exploring the Botanical Gardens, marveling at the diverse flora, and taking moments to simply sit and reflect. Volunteering at the Solar Kitchen became another highlight for them. They wholeheartedly embraced the tasks of chopping, cooking, and serving. They brought a tangible sense of happiness to the Aurovilians. It was heartwarming to see how much their presence brightened the atmosphere – joy seemed to radiate from the nuns, touching everyone around them.

Each day began and ended with chanting. The nuns chanted once in the morning and once in the evening, drawing together the community. Initially, just a few curious individuals attended, but as word spread, the gatherings grew until the Tibetan Pavilion was brimming with people. After each chanting session, the space opened up for dialogue, where the nuns engaged in heartfelt conversations with Aurovilians and visitors. These exchanges cultivated an incredible bond between the nuns and the community, deepening the sense of unity and understanding.

We also held an event together with Svaram, at the Tibetan Pavilion, featuring a gong master. The nuns got to play the gongs, and that experience was incredible for them. They still talk about it. The gong conductor led them through soft and powerful moments, and the nuns were completely engaged. Afterwards, the nuns chanted. It became a beautiful exchange – nuns chanting and instruments echoing. The nuns rang their bells, which held deep significance, creating a call-and-response rhythm. At the end, the nuns chanted alongside the instruments, blending their voices and sound in a way that was new to them. The entire audience felt the magic of the moment, and the Tibetan Pavilion was packed.

Even in casual encounters, the warmth of the nuns shone through. On the streets, at events, or during quiet walks, they greeted everyone with genuine kindness. Their presence seemed to lift spirits effortlessly. I still hear stories circulating about their time here – proof of the lasting impact they left behind.

Among the many experiences, visiting the Matrimandir stood out as a profoundly spiritual moment for the nuns. They described their meditations as deeply powerful, and the energy of the space resonated strongly with them. Beyond the architecture and physical beauty, the spiritual essence of the Matrimandir left an indelible mark on their hearts.

Another significant moment of learning came through nutrition and women’s health education. Paula and Carla delivered an enlightening talk on health and nutrition, which was eye-opening for the nuns. Until then, many had little understanding of how their diet impacted their well-being. This newfound awareness sparked a shift in how they viewed food and self-care. It was as if a veil had lifted, empowering them to make healthier choices moving forward.

Additionally, Suriya the dentist visited to provide much-needed dental care education. Many of the nuns had neglected oral health due to a lack of knowledge and resources. This session was invaluable, equipping them with the understanding and tools to maintain better dental hygiene, which they were eager to share with others in their community.

Another joyful day was spent at Shradanjali, making paper with dried flowers, something that the older nuns recalled doing when young, highlighting for them the importance of bringing back old traditions.

Another part of their journey was the nuns’ culinary discoveries. They experienced a variety of new dishes here, since their access to fruit and vegetables in Zanskar is limited by the harsh climate. A funny moment happened at Surguru restaurant after visiting the Sri Aurobindo Ashram. We ordered ghee roast dosa, which arrives rolled up in a triangle to stay crispy. They called it the “Happy Birthday hat” and wore it, making the whole restaurant laugh. The nuns still recall that with joy. Food became a beautiful part of their journey. Now they experiment more in their cooking, exploring nutrition, spices, and flavors beyond their usual meals.

One particularly joyful day was spent at Mandala Pottery. The nuns had a wonderful time learning, and Adil generously gifted each nun a beautifully handcrafted mug. This gift carried significant meaning, as nuns traditionally travel with a mug and a bowl, essential items in their daily lives. The gesture resonated deeply, symbolising hospitality and thoughtfulness. Wherever they go, the nuns now carry this small but cherished reminder of their time in Auroville, ready to accept tea or food in the spirit of a shared community.

Journeys of the heart

When we initially left Zanskar, we hadn’t raised enough money to fund the entire journey. We only had enough for the nuns to reach Auroville. But thanks to a matching campaign by AVI USA, and the generosity of so many during our time in Auroville, we managed to gather the rest. Through social media, chanting, and the kindness of people drawn to the nuns’ presence, we raised what we needed.

The Auroville stay feels like a distant echo now, but its warmth lingers. The nuns then asked me to continue with them on the next leg of their spiritual pilgrimage. Together, we visited two Tibetan settlements in Karnataka – one near Mysore and another not far from Goa.

At the first settlement, Tashi Lhunpo, monks were our hosts. We met three Rinpoches connected to the nunnery – monks deeply immersed in spiritual practice, guiding others on their paths. They were moved by the experiences the nuns had gathered along the way and encouraged me to continue supporting them however I could. Their warmth and belief in the exchange we were creating left a lasting impression.

Moving forward, I want to empower the nuns in tangible ways – collaborating with groups like Eco Femme and Ecoservices. Empowering them has the potential to ripple outward, as the nuns hold a revered place within their communities. Their influence can gently reshape the social landscape, simply by leading through example. This, to me, is the heart of the project – a quiet, lasting change that endures long after we leave.

Far too often, outside help arrives briefly, builds something like a toilet, and departs. Without the tools or knowledge to maintain it, the gift fades. But if we teach and involve the community, that impact roots itself deeply. This is the approach I’ve tried to follow with the nuns. It feels less like a project and more like family – a bond that is both enriching and bittersweet to part from.

Just days ago, our group split. Four nuns and Norbu, our translator, returned to Zanskar, bound by duties at the nunnery. Six nuns and I continued onward to Bodhgaya, the sacred ground where the Buddha attained enlightenment beneath the Bodhi tree. We arrived only last night, and already the absence of the others is felt. There were tears, of course. We call each other every day, sharing small updates, and holding onto the thread that ties us together.

We recently talked about a potential new project with the young nuns – there are about ten, aged three to twelve, at the nunnery. Winters in Zanskar are so harsh that the younger nuns often leave for warmer places, like Bodhgaya, where we recently met them. We wondered if it might be possible for the young nuns to spend a winter in Auroville and attend school there. It’s just an early conversation, but we’re exploring the idea of an exchange – bringing the young nuns to Auroville and perhaps having Auroville children visit Ladakh in return.

I feel immense love and respect for these women. The thought of leaving them fills me with a quiet ache. But I’ll face that when the time comes. For now, I’ll simply cherish the days we have.

One presence on this journey has been especially remarkable. Lobsang Dolma, an 83-year-old nun, had not left the nunnery since she was a teenager. She expressed a heartfelt desire to join the trip – to see more of the world before her time passes. Her family, bluntly, told her not to go. “You might die on the trip,” they said.

But Norbu reassured her, promising to watch over her. That was all it took. With quiet resolve, Lobsang Dolma set her heart on the pilgrimage. She became the soul of our journey, filling each place with joy. Her laughter, energy, and spirit carried us. Whether walking alongside us or dancing at gatherings, she never lagged behind. She made it home safely to Zanskar, and even now she calls me, overwhelmed with happiness. Her presence touched everyone, even the rinpoches, who marveled at her resilience.

In the end, this journey will live on in the form of a documentary. We filmed throughout, and the next chapter will focus on the lasting impact this pilgrimage has had. I hope to follow how the nuns continue to teach and share knowledge about waste, sustainability, and empowerment. It may take a year or more before the documentary is complete, but for now, glimpses of the journey live on through pictures and videos we share along the way (on our Instagram page – @auroras_eye_films).